Wilderness Rock Bolting

 

Quick Background

  • On June 1, 1998 Chief of the Forest Service, Michael Dombeck, issued a statement which, in effect said, the practice of installing and leaving behind permanent climbing slings, bolts, or other improvements was not permitted within designated Wilderness Areas.
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  • On August 14, 1998 Undersecretary of Agriculture, James Lyons, issued a statement which, in effect said, Michael Dombeck had erred in issuing his decision. It further announced that a task force would be created to "clarify the issue."
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    On this page, Wild Wilderness will attempt to draw attention to the connections between "rock bolting" and other wilderness management issues. We will further attempt to show how and why it happened that Chief Dombeck's ruling was overturned.

     

    Some of the questions we hope to address:

  • What does the Wilderness Act of 1964 permit and what does it prohibit?
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  • How did the recreation industry, and most specifically Recreation Equipment Inc. (REI) figure into this decision?
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  • How might the manner in which the rock bolting issue is resolved, influence other Wilderness management decisions?
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    climbing wall
    Is Sport Climbing appropriate in Wilderness?

     

    Opening paragraph of the Wilderness Act (Public Law 88-577)

    In order to assure that an increasing population, accompanied by expanding settlement and growing mechanization, does not occupy and modify, all areas within the United States and its possessions, leaving no lands designated for preservation and protection in their natural condition, it is hereby declared to be the policy of the Congress to secure for the American people of present and future generations the benefits of an enduring resource of wilderness.

     

    Questions to ponder:

    When deciding whether to support the installation of permanent climbing fixtures such as bolts, slings or other safety devices or climbing aides in designated Wilderness areas try to answer these questions?

  • Is "Sport-Climbing" compatible with the restrictions inherent in the Wilderness Act?
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  • Do all climbers have the right to create and bolt routes at will?
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  • Is it acceptable for a climber with limited skills to bolt an advanced route so as to make it more safe to climb?
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  • Should "speed climbers" be allowed to bolt routes?
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  • Who should decide while routes need to be bolted?
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  • Should the Federal Government assume liability when a climber is injured on a bolted route?
    ... on an unbolted route?
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  • Can the inherent risks in climbing be mitigated through bolt placement?
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  • Where inadequate holds exist, is it appropriate to glue additional holds in place?
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  • Should interpretation of the Wilderness Act be used to strengthen the protection afforded Wilderness, or should new interpretation be used as a means to weaken existing protection?
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  • Which exceptions to the Wilderness Act would you like to see made?

    Unrestricted placement of climbing aides?
    Larger group sizes?
    Increased motorized access?
    Bicycle access?
    Helicopter hiking?
    Chalet-to-Chalet hiking routes?
    Improved signage?
    Aerial tramways?
    Additional Outfitter/Guide services?
    Hut-to-Hut ski systems?
    Elimination of the "solitude" as a management criterion?

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    climbing with bike
    Is Bicycle Climbing appropriate in Wilderness?

     

    Links worth exploring:

    Two Innocent Questions - It's not about the occasional rappel anchor. click.

    One Opinion - Permanent Anchors Don't Belong In Wilderness. click.

    Another Opinion - Access Fund will fight Dombeck's rock bolting decision. click.

    Does the Wilderness Act permit bolting in designated Wilderness? click.

    REI tells James Lyons exactly what it wants done. view document.

    Jim Lyons overrules Chief Dombeck, as per REI's instructions. click.

    Bolting decision was product of "Big Recreation" click

    REI receives Vice Presidential "partnership award". click.

    Slade Gorton (R-WA) and REI team up on rock bolting. click.

    Slade Gorton creates "rock bolting rider" to appropriations bill. click.

    Slade Gorton creates "solitude rider" to appropriations bill. click.

    Slade Gorton praises "REI/USFS private-public partnership" on ARC's website! click.

    Full Text of the Wilderness Act of 1964. click.

    BLM Wilderness Regulations, including rock bolting rule. click.

    BLM Wilderness rock bolting Regulations. click.

    Official REI Position: Fixed Anchors in Forest Service Wilderness. view page 1   view page 2.

    Rock Bolting Questions and Answers prepared by the Access Fund. click.

    Rock Bolting: follow a lively debate. click.

    Rock Bolting Humor? (from Climbing Magazine) click.

    To Take the Wildness Out of Wilderness is to Deny Our Grandchildren Their Dreams. (Recommended) click.

    Important Announcement - REI Quits ARC's Recreation Roundtable click.

    Committee Named to Study Fixed Climbing Anchor Issue click.

    Feds move to get a grip on climbing policy click.

    Outside Magazine (10/00) gives good update on Wilderness bolting negotiations. click.

    Seattle Times - Between a Rock and a Hard Place. click.

     

     

    This document was prepared by Wild Wilderness. To learn more about ongoing industry-backed congressional efforts to motorize, commercialize, and privatize America's public lands, contact:

    Scott Silver, Executive Director,
    Wild Wilderness
    248 NW Wilmington Avenue,  Bend  OR 97701
    Phone (541) 385-5261    E-mail: ssilver@wildwilderness.org